Hiking to the Turquoise Acid Lake of Kawah Ijen Volcano

Kawah Ijen

Hiking to the Turquoise Acid Lake of Kawah Ijen Volcano

In August 2017, I visited Kawah Ijen, a volcanic crater in East Java, Indonesia. It was part of a multi-day road trip across East Java, and I remember it as one of the most surreal experiences of my life.

The name “Kawah Ijen” translates to “Lonely Crater,” but there was nothing lonely about the place when I was there. The trail was packed with tourists, even on a weekday.

Kawah Ijen is famous for two things: its turquoise acid lake, the largest of its kind in the world, and the blue fire phenomenon, which is visible in only two places on Earth. The blue fire is caused by ignited sulphuric gases, and it’s best seen in the dead of night or early morning.

I didn’t go down to see the blue fire myself. I’m not entirely sure why. Maybe it was the timing, or maybe it was the thought of intruding on the sulphur miners who work in such harsh conditions.

This guide is my attempt to piece together my memories of Kawah Ijen and provide you with everything you need to know to plan your own trip. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or a first-timer like me, this guide will help you prepare for the adventure of a lifetime.

What is Kawah Ijen?

Kawah Ijen is an active volcano located in East Java, Indonesia. It’s part of the Ijen volcano complex, which includes several other craters. The main attraction is the crater lake, which is filled with turquoise-blue water. But don’t let its beauty fool you – this lake is highly acidic, with a pH level of less than 0.5.

The volcano is also known for its sulphur mining industry. Miners extract sulphur from the crater and carry it up the steep slopes in baskets. It’s backbreaking work, and the miners are exposed to toxic gases on a daily basis.

One of the most unique features of Kawah Ijen is the blue fire phenomenon. This occurs when sulphuric gases ignite, creating electric-blue flames that can be seen in the dark. It’s a rare sight, and Kawah Ijen is one of only two places in the world where you can see it.

The Blue Fire Phenomenon

The blue fire at Kawah Ijen is a natural wonder that draws thousands of visitors every year. The flames are caused by the combustion of sulphuric gases, which emerge from cracks in the volcano at extremely high temperatures. When these gases come into contact with the air, they ignite, creating a stunning blue glow.

To see the blue fire, you’ll need to start your hike in the middle of the night. The trail is steep and rocky, and you’ll need a gas mask to protect yourself from the toxic fumes. Once you reach the crater, you’ll need to descend into the mining area to get a closer look.

I didn’t go down to see the blue fire myself. At the time, I didn’t think much of it, but now I wonder if I missed out on something truly special. On the other hand, the experience can be overwhelming, especially if you’re not used to hiking in such conditions.

If you do decide to see the blue fire, be respectful of the miners who work in the area. They’re there to make a living, not to entertain tourists.

What to Expect Hiking Kaway Ijen

The hike to Kawah Ijen is not for the faint of heart. The trail is steep, rocky, and mostly uphill. It takes about two hours to reach the crater, depending on your fitness level and the weather conditions.

I’m not much of a hiker, and this was my first time hiking a mountain. The darkness didn’t help – I couldn’t see much, and I was fumbling along the edge of the crater. I had to wear a gas mask, which made it hard to breathe, and I couldn’t wear my glasses, so that added to the difficulty.

But somehow, I made it to the top without falling. When I reached the rim, I looked left and right and saw nothing but darkness. With my poor eyesight, it was quite scary, but also exhilarating.

Here are some tips for hiking Kawah Ijen:

  • Start early: The hike begins around midnight, so you’ll need to be prepared for a long night.

  • Wear sturdy shoes: The trail is rocky and uneven, so good footwear is essential.

  • Bring warm clothing: It can get very cold at the top, especially before sunrise.

  • Use a gas mask: The sulphuric gases can be harmful, so a gas mask is a must.

  • Take breaks: The hike is strenuous, so don’t be afraid to take breaks along the way.

The Sulphur Mining Industry

Sulphur mining is a major industry at Kawah Ijen. Miners extract sulphur from the crater and carry it up the steep slopes in baskets. The sulphur is then sold to various industries, including cosmetics and agriculture.

The work is incredibly dangerous. The miners are exposed to toxic gases on a daily basis, and the physical toll is immense. Many of them suffer from respiratory problems and other health issues as a result of their work.

When I visited Kawah Ijen, I felt a sense of guilt watching the miners. They were there to make a living, while I was there as a tourist. It made me question the ethics of visiting such a place.

If you do visit Kawah Ijen, be mindful of the miners and their work. Avoid getting in their way, and don’t take photos of them without their permission.

Planning Your Kawah Ijen Trip

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Kawah Ijen is during the dry season, which runs from April to October. During this time, the weather is more predictable, and the trails are less slippery.

I visited in August, which is peak tourist season. Even on a weekday, the trail was crowded with tourists. If you want to avoid the crowds, consider visiting during the shoulder season (April-May or September-October).

How to Get There

Planning a trip to Kawah Ijen requires some preparation. Here’s what you need to know:

  • Getting there: The nearest airport is in Surabaya. From there, you can hire a driver or take a bus to Banyuwangi, the closest town to Kawah Ijen.

  • Accommodation: There are several hotels and guesthouses in Banyuwangi. We stayed at a budget hostel, which was basic but comfortable.

  • Guides: It’s a good idea to hire a local guide for the hike. They can help you navigate the trail and provide insights into the area.

  • Combining with other destinations: Kawah Ijen is often combined with a visit to Mount Bromo, another popular volcano in East Java.

Safety and Preparation Tips

Safety should be your top priority when visiting Kawah Ijen. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

  • Physical fitness: The hike is strenuous, so make sure you’re in good physical condition.

  • Proper gear: Bring warm clothing, sturdy shoes, and a gas mask.

  • Health precautions: The sulphuric gases can be harmful, so take breaks and listen to your body.

Kawah Ijen is a place of contrasts – breathtaking beauty and harsh realities. From the ethereal blue fire to the backbreaking work of sulphur miners, this destination leaves a lasting impression on all who visit.

As I reflect on my trip, I’m reminded of the importance of preparation, respect for local communities, and embracing the unknown. If you’re planning a trip to Kawah Ijen, take the time to research, pack wisely, and approach the experience with an open heart.

Joanne Tai

An adventurer, and former seafarer.

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